(EXP) — Wineries

From mountain pinot to coastal chardonnay.

New Zealand makes some of the world's most distinctive cool-climate wines — and almost every cellar door is run by the people who grew the grapes.

(Field notes) — The Edit

Six wine regions, each shaped by its weather: Marlborough's sun-soaked sauvignon, Central Otago's high-altitude pinot noir, Hawke's Bay's bordeaux blends, Martinborough's elegant reds, Waipara's aromatic whites, and the maritime chardonnays of Waiheke.

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The big six

Marlborough produces around two-thirds of the country's wine — visit for the breadth. Central Otago is the world's southernmost wine region; its pinot noir is the calling card. Hawke's Bay is older, warmer, and the home of NZ syrah. Martinborough, Waipara and Waiheke are smaller, walkable, and built around boutique cellar doors.

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How to taste

Most cellar doors offer a flight of five to seven wines for $10–$20, often refunded against a bottle purchase. Many of the best are open by appointment only — book ahead, especially for vintage tastings or vineyard tours. Lunches at winery restaurants are a national institution; reserve a week out in summer.

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Getting around

Hire a driver or book a regional wine tour — most regions have one or two operators who know the smaller producers. In Marlborough and Hawke's Bay, cycling between cellar doors is genuinely lovely; bikes can be hired in town.